“This is gonna want for words…”, that is what I wrote as a placeholder way back in August of ’23 when I first made this one. Now we find ourselves with the calendar nearly back to where it sat that day when I reminded myself that the work remained unfinished. Clearly, I am a big fan of procrastination, but I do hate leaving a job half done, so in the spirit of Van Halen we’re gonna finish what we’ve started, if you will join me now as we stand and make the Ashtray Heart.
This drink was created by Erik Ellestad and was featured in Beta Cocktails, a tome nearly as legendary as it is impossible to find. It is a truly amazing work that introduced the world to some of my favorites including Eeyore’s Requiem and the Bitter Giuseppe, among many other excellent concoctions. I was actually introduced to this drink at one of my favorite watering holes, Boston’s amazing backbar. My friend, Jenn and I were in to celebrate the turning of another year on her calendar with our usual enthusiasm and aplomb. We had a grand time talking to the staff and swapping stories as we worked through the menu, when one of them set this unassuming little wonder in front of me. Before I took that first sip I was hooked. The aroma alone sold me and once it passed my lips I just sat in silent reverence for a minute. Seriously, it was that good. Let’s make one and you will see why.
This cocktail is frustratingly simple, one of those three ingredient, equal parts cocktails that I love. First up to bat is one ounce of dark Jamaican Rum, they specified Smith + Cross and that is good enough for me. Next you are going to need an ounce of sweet vermouth, they call for Punt e Mes. Finally, add one ounce of dry vermouth, I chose A.G. Perino, and give it a good stir over some of those artisanal ice cubes to the beat of the drinks’ namesake, Captain Beefheart’s inimitable, Ashtray Heart. When the drink is well-chilled and a little diluted, strain into a waiting coupe, but first give that glass a rinse with a smoky mezcal, I chose a little Ponte Chingon that I picked up in Oaxaca but anything that brings the smoke will do. Express a grapefruit peel over the glass and serve with no garnish at all.
Before you even give this one a taste that bouquet is practically breathtaking. It is all so forward, yet balanced. The smoke from the mezcal is right up front, but with a fruitiness from the grapefruit that subtly masks that wine forward grape undercurrent of the vermouths, all anchored by the unmistakable banana funk of the Smith + Cross. That is just in the aroma. Seriously. When you can break yourself away from breathing deeply to actually try it, the reverse Manhattan riff delivers on the promise of the nose. So damned good. Each of those scents just expands and deepens as you sample the drink. Flavor stacked on top of flavor, competing for attention before settling into harmony, perfectly balanced in a way few drinks achieve. This one is a winner.
It is funny that I have let this one sit unwritten for so long. They say that time gets away from you and that is certainly true, I feel it slipping through my fingers a little faster every day. There have been many changes in the year that has passed since I first tried this one in a dark bar in Massachusetts. It is fair to say I am not the same man that I was back then, but I guess that is true of all of us; at least I hope it is. I hope we are all still growing, still learning, striving to be better, even if we fail. Still, looking back through all of the changes that this year has brought, I am thankful to be sitting here today. There is something to be said for reminiscing, looking back at old me across that gulf of time, maybe raising a glass and giving a nod. He doesn’t know what is coming and neither do I, and isn’t that kind of wonderful? I think so and I hope you will stay safe, stay sane and stay hydrated, my friends.
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